Wild Rides Torque Boxes - 1982-1993 Mustang GT Registry Message Board

Scott88GT · 11-06-2009, 01:12 AM

They are selling on Ebay for cheaper than you can get at any other source I researched. Scored upper and lowers for $79 with shipping....

On other fronts, I am getting ready to clean, grind and install subframe connectors (maximum motorsport full length) and the boxes. Any last advice before I start??

skunk · 11-06-2009, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott88GT

They are selling on Ebay for cheaper than you can get at any other source I researched. Scored upper and lowers for $79 with shipping....

On other fronts, I am getting ready to clean, grind and install subframe connectors (maximum motorsport full length) and the boxes. Any last advice before I start??

when installing/welding on subframe connectors use a drive on lift with the tires on like it would be sitting on the ground. sitting it on jack stands or even a regular lift could slightly twist the body/floor pan.This could have issues depending how bad it is, think about how much the door gap changes when jacking the car up, sometimes the door even opens/close harder and even the hatch can go slightly out of line. when you weld and stiffen with the floor out of place the door gap problem could be permanent. you could search on other forums there are topics on this, it can be done w/o a drive but it's risky imho. I found an exhaust shop that had a drive on and paid them to weld them on.

need4spd90 · 11-06-2009, 11:30 AM

i did mine with my front tires on drive up ramps and jackstands placed under the rear axle tubes as close to the tires as possible..made sure the bottom of the front and rear tires were as close to the same height as possible(simulating the car sitting level on the ground)

i've had no problems

but its def not fun grinding/welding on your back,so if you could use a lift,do so,by all means..

need4spd90 · 11-06-2009, 08:10 PM

got a link for those? i cant seem to find them that cheap on there..

cheapest i see the upper&lower kit is 150+shipping..

Scott88GT · 11-07-2009, 01:13 AM

http://stores.ebay.com/Wild-Rides-Chassis-Products

I think they typo'd the price on mine, not sure, because the ones I saw out there just now are 79 before shipping. Still cheaper than 150 at other places.

need4spd90 · 11-07-2009, 05:27 AM

holy crap..think ill pick me up a set for the notch..thats dirt cheap..those are supposedly the best ones out there and they're the same price and all the "lesser models"..awesome find man,thanks!

Scott88GT · 11-09-2009, 02:19 PM

Just bolted the lower reinforcements in. All went exactly like the directions. Had to make one hole a little bigger with a round file. I didn't have to pull the bolt out of the control arm either, the part slid right in.

A tip on removing the sound insulation: dont heat it. Try peeling it cold instead. Most of mine came off without a problem. I got the rest of it out with a hammer and 1" chisel. Heating it only caused it to stick to the sheetmetal better.......

TCR racer · 11-09-2009, 07:02 PM

There stuff dosen't look bad at all for the price.

I got a couple of question for you.
Is the 'lower reinforcement' just an L type bracket bolted though the floor?
Did you get the frame connectors from wild rides also? Did you like them?

Steve

Scott88GT · 11-09-2009, 09:47 PM

http://www.wildridesracecars.com/sto...ype=P&id=16153

They come with the plate as well that bolts on the interior--my plan is to finish all with my brother-in-law running a few beads on them (upper/lower, top/bottom) with a wire feed.

Be aware when doing the uppers, pack a lunch and lots of patience. I got half of one side done in four hours.

I bought my subframe connectors from Maximum Motorsports. Their full-length seemed like the best all-around deal to me for what I planned on doing. I have not heard a negative thing about their products either.

11-06-2009, 01:12 AM	#1
Scott88GT 2010 Donating Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Davenport, WA Posts: 342	Wild Rides Torque Boxes They are selling on Ebay for cheaper than you can get at any other source I researched. Scored upper and lowers for $79 with shipping.... On other fronts, I am getting ready to clean, grind and install subframe connectors (maximum motorsport full length) and the boxes. Any last advice before I start?? __________________ 1988 Canadian Mustang 1965 Fairlane Sportscoupe (My high school ride) 2002 Golf (my commuter) 2004 F-150 (Now the wife's)

11-06-2009, 11:30 AM	#3
need4spd90 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Mountain Top,PA Posts: 1,612	i did mine with my front tires on drive up ramps and jackstands placed under the rear axle tubes as close to the tires as possible..made sure the bottom of the front and rear tires were as close to the same height as possible(simulating the car sitting level on the ground) i've had no problems but its def not fun grinding/welding on your back,so if you could use a lift,do so,by all means.. __________________ 1987 Notchback-GT40P heads,Bcam,Explorer intake 12.067 @ 112.94 1.687 60ft..so far..

11-06-2009, 08:10 PM	#4
need4spd90 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Mountain Top,PA Posts: 1,612	got a link for those? i cant seem to find them that cheap on there.. cheapest i see the upper&lower kit is 150+shipping.. __________________ 1987 Notchback-GT40P heads,Bcam,Explorer intake 12.067 @ 112.94 1.687 60ft..so far..

11-07-2009, 01:13 AM	#5
Scott88GT 2010 Donating Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Davenport, WA Posts: 342	http://stores.ebay.com/Wild-Rides-Chassis-Products I think they typo'd the price on mine, not sure, because the ones I saw out there just now are 79 before shipping. Still cheaper than 150 at other places. __________________ 1988 Canadian Mustang 1965 Fairlane Sportscoupe (My high school ride) 2002 Golf (my commuter) 2004 F-150 (Now the wife's)

11-07-2009, 05:27 AM	#6
need4spd90 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Mountain Top,PA Posts: 1,612	holy crap..think ill pick me up a set for the notch..thats dirt cheap..those are supposedly the best ones out there and they're the same price and all the "lesser models"..awesome find man,thanks! __________________ 1987 Notchback-GT40P heads,Bcam,Explorer intake 12.067 @ 112.94 1.687 60ft..so far..

11-09-2009, 02:19 PM	#7
Scott88GT 2010 Donating Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Davenport, WA Posts: 342	Just bolted the lower reinforcements in. All went exactly like the directions. Had to make one hole a little bigger with a round file. I didn't have to pull the bolt out of the control arm either, the part slid right in. A tip on removing the sound insulation: dont heat it. Try peeling it cold instead. Most of mine came off without a problem. I got the rest of it out with a hammer and 1" chisel. Heating it only caused it to stick to the sheetmetal better....... __________________ 1988 Canadian Mustang 1965 Fairlane Sportscoupe (My high school ride) 2002 Golf (my commuter) 2004 F-150 (Now the wife's)

11-09-2009, 07:02 PM	#8
TCR racer Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Pa Posts: 21	There stuff dosen't look bad at all for the price. I got a couple of question for you. Is the 'lower reinforcement' just an L type bracket bolted though the floor? Did you get the frame connectors from wild rides also? Did you like them? Steve

11-09-2009, 09:47 PM	#9
Scott88GT 2010 Donating Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Davenport, WA Posts: 342	http://www.wildridesracecars.com/sto...ype=P&id=16153 They come with the plate as well that bolts on the interior--my plan is to finish all with my brother-in-law running a few beads on them (upper/lower, top/bottom) with a wire feed. Be aware when doing the uppers, pack a lunch and lots of patience. I got half of one side done in four hours. I bought my subframe connectors from Maximum Motorsports. Their full-length seemed like the best all-around deal to me for what I planned on doing. I have not heard a negative thing about their products either. __________________ 1988 Canadian Mustang 1965 Fairlane Sportscoupe (My high school ride) 2002 Golf (my commuter) 2004 F-150 (Now the wife's)

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