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Old 01-27-2002, 03:45 AM   #1
Stewart
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I just wanted to post that I did the 3G alternator upgrade.

My OEM alternator took a dump back in December, and since I've been wanting to upgrade to a 3G anyway, I now had the best reason to do it!

After previously searching the 'net, and different UBB's, I had already decided to go with a new alternator from Pa-Performance, instead of trying to find an old one at a junkyard.

The Pa-Performance was only a few bucks more than a remanned one from Autozone or Kragens, yet it was brand new, didn't need a core exchange, and came with a lifetime warrantee. On top of that, I found a brand new one, still in the box, for sale on the 'net from a private seller at a lower price. I called Pa-Performance and talked to the owner who said he'd transfer the lifetime warrantee guarrantee to me, even though I wasn't the original purchaser. I thought that was pretty cool on his part.

Well, I finalized the deal with the seller in Texas, received the alternator, and finally installed it this past weekend.

Pa-Performance truly has a good product. They provide clear instructions on how to modify the alternator bracket so the bigger 3G will fit in the old 2G space, as well as a concise, precise, step-by-step procedure for the upgraded wiring.

Overall, I'm very happy with the product and would recommend this alternator to anyone.

Stewart


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Old 01-27-2002, 03:29 PM   #2
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I did the same thing this last summer but I got one from a junkyard for $80, wiring and all. I needed it in a hurry so I took the deal. I will look into getting a better one when this one goes bad. Hopefully at that time I will have another mustang to drive...
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Old 01-27-2002, 06:00 PM   #3
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What else other than the bracket needs to be modified?

 
Old 01-27-2002, 08:04 PM   #4
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The wiring harness has to be changed too. The way the alternator is wired up is different. It has a bolt on stator wire and one of the same connectors as the stock alternator. Just a little soldering and shrink tubing is all that is necessary.

F.Y.I. It has been pointed out to me that some alternator support brackets don't need modification. I have yet to see one, but that is coming from MM&FF in the article they did a while back. Depends on the casting as to whether or not cutting is necessary.
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Old 01-27-2002, 08:40 PM   #5
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Goodson pretty much nailed everything.

The soldering and re-wiring was pretty easy. Pa-Performance does a good job explaining everything.

You can see their online instructions page and see how good they are.

Stewart

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Old 01-27-2002, 10:38 PM   #6
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I've got their 95amp version of the 3g alternator. Did you change to the larger power wire that they recommend?
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Old 01-28-2002, 04:21 AM   #7
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Yeah. When I bought the alt, the guy I purchased it from had the kit too. Bought the whole thing for about the same price Pa-Performance is selling it for right now with their Internet special.

The upgraded wire is well put together. I am very impressed my the quality of the product, and the service Pa-Performance is giving me even though I didn;t purchase from them.

That tells me they stand behind their product.

Stewart
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Old 07-11-2002, 03:39 PM   #8
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Hopefully replying to this old post will still get answers I received My 3G alt and am ready for installation. First off the PA links, and the link below showed great pics and details of the job.
http://fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/...e/index2.shtml

My question is, on the 4guage power cord... I assume the 4g power lead is in ADDITION to the already installed black/orange leads (2) I am using? from this above artical it appears like the power 4 guage lead is an additional source going to the starter (pos), vs eliminating the 2 stock leads?

Also, which battery rating is best suited for this alternator once installed?? I did not see any mention of this in this post... -COBRA
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Old 07-11-2002, 08:31 PM   #9
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Yes you are correct, the larger wire is in addition to those other two.
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Old 07-13-2002, 11:26 PM   #10
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Just picked up a 4 guage black wire (think it was for a battery lead) Will this work as the optional wire needed or do I have to have the one like pa performance sells with the fuse link in it? This one has no fuse? Mick/Goodson, what did you guys use? G.Grebe how about you? Will I be OK or am I risking some sort of problem if it ever overloads or shorts out??? -COBRA
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Old 07-14-2002, 12:27 AM   #11
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I believe when Goodson and I installed a 3G alternator in his GT we removed the two 10 ga power wires completely. Those two wires are eventually joined together at a junction (about one foot from the alternator plug) that attaches to a larger (4 ga.?) wire in the original wiring harness (remove whatever loom, tape, etc. that is covering the wires and you'll see what I'm describing). We simply cut that junction and the two 10 ga. wires out of the harness and soldered in a 4 ga.(?) wire with an eyelet on the end. We never used an additional power source like what is shown at the link above. Goodson can correct me if I got my story wrong.
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Old 07-22-2002, 02:56 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the help. Got the 10G installed! The hardest part to me was getting the bottom bolt back in. It had a burr or something making it a bit of a pain. I also went through a "few" dremel accessories cutting the bracket. Otherwise, not too bad of a job. In my case I added the 4 ga. wire in addition to the other wires. So far it seems to have fixed the stalling issues. Thanks Mick and to all the others who have given links and tips. The whole job cost me about $150 which includes the NEW 10 G Alternator. I still have my old one for what its worth. Not sure what to do with it, it still works, just a little "tired" -COBRA

[ 07-22-2002, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: cobra ]
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Old 07-23-2002, 09:54 AM   #13
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Now you can install underdrive pulleys and have no charging problems at low RPM. That'll go well with your quest for performance parts for fatser and quicker times at the track.
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Old 07-23-2002, 11:02 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by FoxChassis:
Now you can install underdrive pulleys and have no charging problems at low RPM. That'll go well with your quest for performance parts for fatser and quicker times at the track.
Mick, now I am getting scared Yes, I now have to step up with some real mods that give performance. All the cosmetics are over, time to get the horsepower up! Next year could bring changes... -COBRA
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Old 07-23-2002, 12:00 PM   #15
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Make it stop, make it handle, THEN make it go.

Modifying or replacing certain suspension and chassis components will help acceleration.
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