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Old 06-23-2013, 06:02 AM   #3
wydopnthrtl
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Join Date: May 2011
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I always switch old cars to e-fans. It makes for a smoother idle, noticeable tip in power, better MPG, and depending on how bad the stock fan clutch was they can free up power during full throttle blasts.

With e-fans you can go real cheap, real expensive, or somewhere in between. I usually choose new & high quality parts because I can afford them and I don't want to constantly be messing around with mods once they are installed.


My 89 has a 2 core aluminum rad (unknown source / model-make) And I used the largest flex-a-lite S-blade they had. It pulls 2500cfm and is very quiet. I've bought three of these over the years and used them on 4 different vehicles. I've put well over 100k miles on them in daily driving (Mich). Never had a problem except for long idling (45+ minutes) when using under drive pulleys. With stock pulleys I've never had a problem even spending 10+ hrs cruising woodward in 90F heat.

I like to use the flex-a-lite controller. They have one that ramps the turn on speed so that it doesn't put a sudden load on the electrical system. It turns on and runs at 60% speed, then as cooling needs go up the fan speeds up. It's a $125 controller but its the one to have IMO.

Since I don't use the stock low coolant bottle anymore I'm powering the controller off the sensors power wire.

Not shown in the pic below.. but I now use a round generic JEGS coolant reservoir. It was something like $25 and works just fine. I made a little L bracket that I attached to the metal lip at the bottom of the battery. I felt that metal lip was a bit weak so I added a doubler on the battery side. It works well and is plenty strong. The rad is completely full and the bottle sits at about 5-10% full when cold (just barely see any coolant in the bottom) and about 50% full on a real hot summer day.
btw, I ran w/o a bottle for a year. About once a month I was having to top off the rad. (that's what pushed me to add one) Since installing the bottle I've noticed that the temp is more stable and takes a little longer for the temp to start to climb. Getting that air out of the system made a noticeable improvement! That makes sense since coolant will transfer heat better than air bubbles.

I run a 180 tstat and using a infrared temp gun (measuring near the probe) I have the fan come on at about 205F. Hooked up this way the fan hardly ever comes on. It takes a hot summer day and stop and go driving for it to come on. I think the aluminum radiator is the way to go if you can find one that fits and doesn't cost too much.
I put the temp probe close to the engine outlet hose so that I have a better measure of the engines heat. And with the car hot after driving around town the hottest temp I've measured is 217F. And that was letting it sit in the driveway idling for 1/2 after the drive too.

Thus far I've pushed it fairly hard and am very comfortable it'll keep things in check. I run B&M underdrives, a Edelbrock WP, and installed new ECU & gauge temp sensors. It'll get hot (stock temp gauge at about 80% UPn the normal area) and the fan on 100%. It keeps the temps in check but at idle the battery is in a state of discharge. I think if I tried to do something like woodward dream cruise I'd not make it w/o having to keep the rpms up to 1100 or so when sitting still. But otherwise this setup works very well and for most of my driving it never even comes on.



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Last edited by wydopnthrtl; 06-23-2013 at 06:27 PM..
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