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-   -   Rebuilding Dist - Advise? (http://www.mustanggt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=53862)

wydopnthrtl 01-15-2014 12:43 PM

Rebuilding Dist - Advise?
 
Guys, I'm rebuilding my engine this winter and would like to rebuild and/or upgrade the distributor too. Is there a kit for doing this to a stock 89 unit that you would recommend?
My dist works ok. But it has 127k miles on it & has some noticable drag when spinning by hand.
Any advise for reducing friction? Any bearing kits?
Thanks for any input!

Blown88GT 01-16-2014 08:03 PM

The driver gear needs to be pressed off with a bearing press.

Augie88GT 01-17-2014 01:19 AM

Hi Blown88GT,

It is nice to read about someone who is also the original owner of a 1988 Mustang GT hatchback, like myself. Mine was built in June 1988.

I looked at your website. It's very interesting, and it contained a lot of info. When my car was brand new, it also had the "blinking headlights" problem. When I drove it with the headlights and fog lights on, the headlights would blink on and off intermittently. It drove me nuts. The cars in front of me would pull over and get out of my way. I think that they thought I was a cop.:smile: Fortunately, my car was brand new and still covered under warranty. I had to take it back to my Ford dealer several times to correct the problem. They blamed it on a "defective relay". They had to replace it 3 or 4 times because all of the relays were bad. The service manager told me that Ford got a whole batch of defective relays from a supplier. They were all bad. After several months, and after 3 or 4 replacements, I finally got a relay that wasn't defective. I guess that Ford had to just grind through all of the bad ones.

Your website also lists recalls. I had the catalytic converter recall taken care of. They had to put a new H-pipe on my car. Back then (circa 1992), I remember the Ford dealer telling us that the H-pipe cost $1,500. And that was over 20 years ago. I could imagine what it would cost today. But I never had the ignition recall taken care of. By that time, my car was in storage and not on the road. Please see my threads in the "Front Porch" section of this site for a further explanation.

skunk 01-17-2014 11:17 AM

wydopnthrtl imo I would purchase another motorcraft oem dizzy. They are a proven part with years and many miles of reliability even yours. The stock ignition system is dyno proven to handle well into the 400hp range and one of the best factory systems. Some of the aftermarket distributors are hit and miss and you can easily google the results and cost around and even more than the oem with no gains ( unless application requires like high levels of hp).

The motorcraft part is DA2010 and autonation ( formerly tousley ford parts ) has it listed for $203.71 cheaper than I got mine a few years ago. some electrical parts I would only use oem when applicable, they are proven parts.

Best of luck.

wydopnthrtl 01-17-2014 12:18 PM

Thanks guys :thumbsup:

skunk 01-17-2014 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Augie88GT
Your website also lists recalls. I had the catalytic converter recall taken care of. They had to put a new H-pipe on my car. Back then (circa 1992), I remember the Ford dealer telling us that the H-pipe cost $1,500. And that was over 20 years ago. I could imagine what it would cost today. But I never had the ignition recall taken care of. By that time, my car was in storage and not on the road. Please see my threads in the "Front Porch" section of this site for a further explanation.

Not trying to highjack thread but wanted to put it out there. P.P.I has brand new nos factory Ford h-pipes with cats for $899..for the mustang have to have it stock guys.

http://www.performancepartsinc.com/engine_79_93.html

wydopnthrtl 01-17-2014 07:52 PM

Cool site. Didn't know they existed.

Blown88GT 01-17-2014 08:36 PM

Ford distributors are not available from Ford anymore. I tried to get one a couple years ago. My original one & a junkyard one are in storage. Despite what others say, the MSD Pro Billet is well made & it's pretty, too. No need to cover it up with the rubber boot.

I messed the original up trying to get the gear off to replace the PIP. Despite what others may say, it won't come off without a press. There's probably nothing wrong with the PIP either. Lots of bad advice from the "Expert" on StangNet.

I got the cats replaced under warranty & sold them not long after. Replaced with hi-flow cats. A couple years later, inspections were eliminated by FL Gov. Jeb Bush.

I never found the build sheet on mine. I purchased it 1-13-1988. Must have been built in late 1987. There is an obscure way to tell. The orange stripe around the side was a decal, except for the doors where it was molded into the protectors. When I tried to remove them, it wouldn't come off the doors. They must have been Metric because it's now under the black side stripe. '87's were like this & some of the '88's.

Ford always did odd things in "transition year" vehicles. I once had a 1970 1/2 Ford Falcon. It was always fun going to the parts store for anything & they asked the year. When I told them, they said "no way", then I'd pull out the owner's manual, on the cover it said 1970 1/2. Then they came out to look at it. Also it looked like a Torino but had Falcon namplates all over it. It was a 6-cyl that came directly from Detroit to a Detroit dealer.

Blown88GT 01-17-2014 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Augie88GT
Hi Blown88GT,

It is nice to read about someone who is also the original owner of a 1988 Mustang GT hatchback, like myself. Mine was built in June 1988.

I looked at your website. It's very interesting, and it contained a lot of info. When my car was brand new, it also had the "blinking headlights" problem. When I drove it with the headlights and fog lights on, the headlights would blink on and off intermittently. It drove me nuts. The cars in front of me would pull over and get out of my way. I think that they thought I was a cop.:smile: Fortunately, my car was brand new and still covered under warranty. I had to take it back to my Ford dealer several times to correct the problem. They blamed it on a "defective relay". They had to replace it 3 or 4 times because all of the relays were bad. The service manager told me that Ford got a whole batch of defective relays from a supplier. They were all bad. After several months, and after 3 or 4 replacements, I finally got a relay that wasn't defective. I guess that Ford had to just grind through all of the bad ones.

Your website also lists recalls. I had the catalytic converter recall taken care of. They had to put a new H-pipe on my car. Back then (circa 1992), I remember the Ford dealer telling us that the H-pipe cost $1,500. And that was over 20 years ago. I could imagine what it would cost today. But I never had the ignition recall taken care of. By that time, my car was in storage and not on the road. Please see my threads in the "Front Porch" section of this site for a further explanation.

The website is a bit dated & so am I. (LOL) I only created the website to learn how to do one. I needed subject matter, so the Mustang was it. Did the whole thing on the laptop & uploaded via dial-up connection to Geocities. It was 1999 & broadband wasn't generally available to the public. I still have that laptop & it works, too.

I have few good things to say about any of the Ford dealers or the manufacturer. The problem with the headlights was a bad design by the Ford electrical engineers. It was a rookie mistake & nobody caught it. A rookie engineer doesn't know what a wire ampacity table is, they don't teach that in school. They used no headlamp relay & improperly sized the wiring to handle the load. The headlamp switch is not a relay but a switch/resettable circuit breaker. When the fog lights are on, it pushes the current load over the edge. The blinking is the circuit breaker doing it's job correctly. When the circuit overheats it shuts off, when it cools, it turns back on, so it keeps cycling back & forth. The replacement either had a bit more capacity or they were worried it was damaged. The 12Ga wiring fixed everything without adding a relay.

It's about the only car I ever heard of with no relay for the headlamps. They were trying to save $1 by eliminating the relay. Turn off the foglights & it's okay, so only GT's have this problem. Change them to LED's & the original circuit might work.

They did the same thing with the alternator, they used a connector for the load & were smart enough to double up on the connector pins & wires, but failed to realize a bit of dirt or corrosion on the connector would create a voltage drop, overheat the connector & cause it to fail or start a fire. They never did a recall on this one. Just for the connector alone, get rid of the 2G alternator. BTW, 2G stands for 2nd Generation, 3G for 3rd, now they are on 6, 7, or 8.

I'm sure glad I bought all the Ford Service Manuals & the EVTM Manual. Neither are available anymore but I scanned the EVTM & put it on my website.

It's not a quality car & never was, the new ones may be different; I'm really liking the 2015 due out later this year. http://www.ford.com/cars/mustang/2015/

skunk 01-18-2014 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Cool site. Didn't know they existed.

Used them for many parts( a few grand worth of stuff). Jim is top notch, great service.

Blown88GT is correct the DA2010 is no longer produced by ford :mecry: . They say due to low demand Dam glad I got mine when I did.

I have heard good things about the performance distributor units. I have only seen 1 up close and they are very nice quality. pretty good reviews on the old inter web over msd/Mallory.
http://performancedistributors.com/p...-distributors/

It's still a hit/miss aftermarket wise, just the way it is.

Augie88GT 01-21-2014 09:00 AM

Hi Blown88GT,

You mentioned that you are not sure when your car was built, and that there is an obscure way to tell. I'm a little confused. I hope I am not over-simplifying things, but the build date (month/year) is located on the door tag. Mine reads "06/88". I purchased my car on circa 6/10/88. My car also has the same stripe situation as your car. It is black, with a red stripe. The red stripe is tape all around the car, except for the doors. On the doors, it is painted on. And my car was built very late in the model year (June 1988). I think you were implying that only the early 1988 models had this. Either I mis-understood what you were implying, or your assumption is wrong, or my car is an anomaly.

I am also confused about the solution to my car's "blinking headlights" problem. Are you saying that my dealer gave me the wrong info 26 years ago when they told me that it was from a "defective relay"? And are you implying that my dealer solved the problem back then by re-configuring the circuit (adding a relay that wasn't originally there, or using better wires)? Why did they tell me that it was from a "defective relay" (if there was no relay there)?

You also mentioned the alternators catching fire. I'm glad you brought that up. Back in the 1990s, my mechanic (who is the original owner of a green 1990 or 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback) told me about that. He advised me to change the alternator wiring and/or put a Lincoln alternator in my car. He also mentioned something about a grounding wire. I don't think Ford ever issued a recall on that. I never did it because my car was already in storage by then. Do you think I need to do that?

Thank you for everything.:smile:

Blown88GT 01-23-2014 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Augie88GT
Hi Blown88GT,

You mentioned that you are not sure when your car was built, and that there is an obscure way to tell. I'm a little confused...

I am also confused about the solution to my car's "blinking headlights" problem. Are you saying that my dealer gave me the wrong info 26 years ago when they told me that it was from a "defective relay"? And are you implying that my dealer solved the problem back then by re-configuring the circuit (adding a relay that wasn't originally there, or using better wires)? Why did they tell me that it was from a "defective relay" (if there was no relay there)?

You also mentioned the alternators catching fire. I'm glad you brought that up. Back in the 1990s, my mechanic (who is the original owner of a green 1990 or 1991 Mustang LX 5.0 hatchback) told me about that. He advised me to change the alternator wiring and/or put a Lincoln alternator in my car. He also mentioned something about a grounding wire. I don't think Ford ever issued a recall on that. I never did it because my car was already in storage by then. Do you think I need to do that?

Thank you for everything.:smile:

Forgot about the door tag, mine says 12/87. Few, if any, know or remember about the door stripe. Don't know how many years it was this way. I suspect the reason is the doors were sourced as an assembly by some else & there was no interface specification.

As for the foglights, here are the facts:
Fogged Out
Ford wouldn't do the repair under warranty & charged me $50 in 1991, to do the repair as outlined in the TSB.

3G, 130A Alternator Upgrade
The alternator shop who made the 3G for me, told me about all the 2G's he saw go "up in smoke". Ford never issued a recall, don't know how they got out of that one.

Chris-90LX 01-24-2014 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wydopnthrtl
Cool site. Didn't know they existed.

PPI was always the place to locate those discontinued Ford pieces. They still had stuff like the 140MPH speedos for the pre-1987 Mustangs and Capri's long after Ford longer carried them. Glad to see they are still operating.

fb93 01-25-2014 12:33 AM

Should you find something that fits your year and model, grab it! Chances are good you may not ever find another in the near future. Ive been stockpiling quite a few NOS pieces for the 93 for this very reason. Repros are questionable and avoid as much of that stuff as i possibly can. Electronics in particular.

NPD did have NOS Ford distributors. They just ran out not too long ago. I was going to grab one but kept putting it off and putting it off. If you see something, grab it! The prices are only going to go up.

Rebuilt distributors are questionable. The case may be Ford (no problem there), but the PIP sensor, and TFI if so equipped, will be a generic brand. They (either or) could last 5 days or they could last 5 weeks. Or if youre lucky, 5 years.

Ford Motorcraft PIP (stator) part #DU-30-C or E8PZ-12A112-A
Ford Motorcraft TFI (ignition module) part #DY425 or E6SF-12A297-A1A

bryant99 02-27-2014 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blown88GT
Ford distributors are not available from Ford anymore. I tried to get one a couple years ago. My original one & a junkyard one are in storage. Despite what others say, the MSD Pro Billet is well made & it's pretty, too. No need to cover it up with the rubber boot.

I messed the original up trying to get the gear off to replace the PIP. Despite what others may say, it won't come off without a press. There's probably nothing wrong with the PIP either. Lots of bad advice from the "Expert" on StangNet.

I got the cats replaced under warranty & sold them not long after. Replaced with hi-flow cats. A couple years later, inspections were eliminated by FL Gov. Jeb Bush.

I never found the build sheet on mine. I purchased it 1-13-1988. Must have been built in late 1987. There is an obscure way to tell. The orange stripe around the side was a decal, except for the doors where it was molded into the protectors. When I tried to remove them, it wouldn't come off the doors. They must have been Metric because it's now under the black side stripe. '87's were like this & some of the '88's.

Ford always did odd things in "transition year" vehicles. I once had a 1970 1/2 Ford Falcon. It was always fun going to the parts store for anything & they asked the year. When I told them, they said "no way", then I'd pull out the owner's manual, on the cover it said 1970 1/2. Then they came out to look at it. Also it looked like a Torino but had Falcon namplates all over it. It was a 6-cyl that came directly from Detroit to a Detroit dealer.

look under the rear seat,also under the carpet rear floor board and some times in the side panels of the rear seat.


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